If you’ve never stood in it yourself, you’ve certainly noticed the long line at the mesclun stand each week at the local farmers’ market. The folks behind the counter scoop up and bag those frilly, curly, colorful leaves with a big metal bowl to eager customers. But what is mesclun, and what are those frilly, curly, colorful leaves?
Mesclun comes from an Old French word meaning to mix and is a mixture of baby lettuces, tender young greens—and a few reds and purples. This kind of salad was first introduced in Provence and traditionally includes arugula, endive, chervil, and other leafy vegetables.
Most of us grew up with salads made almost entirely of one kind of lettuce—iceberg or romaine, usually—and our sandwiches often came with a side of iceberg pieces topped with a tomato slice. Now that the market is full of exciting varieties prized not only for their appearance but for the diverse flavors and textures, it’s time to expand your lettuce horizons!
Lettuces are divided by kind and generally fit into one of these categories:
• leaf or loose-leaf—crisp leaves arranged on a central stalk
• cos or romaine—leaves on an upright head
• crisphead—a ball of tightly packed, crisp leaves
• butterhead—tender, smooth leaves grown in loosely-packed balls
• stem—tall stalks used mainly in Chinese dishes
Below are a few of the more popular varieties of lettuce, most of which you can find in your regular grocery store.
Arugula
This fresh, peppery lettuce adds a kick to your salads and your sandwiches. The larger leaves are usually stronger. Look for arugula at the farmers’ market or specialty groceries; it’s also part of pre-packaged spring mix salads and mesclun.
Baby Beet Greens
Immature tops of beets are like miniature Swiss Chard—red-veined green with dark red stems—but they’re soft and look beautiful in salads.
Butter (Boston, Bibb) Lettuce
Tender and sweet, this lettuce is a common salad lettuce. It rolls easily, making it a good choice for protein rollups and other wraps.
Cress (Watercress)
Peppery watercress is sold in bunches. The curly, stiff leaves and stems are sold by the bunch and make an excellent addition to salads and sandwiches.
Endive (Belgian Endive)
These yellowish oval leaves are slightly bitter, adding to the bite of a salad. Their shape and sturdiness make them perfect for scooping foods and dips!
Escarole
Large, crisp, and slightly bitter, escarole is often found in soups.
Frisée
These curly pale leaves of chicory are shaggy, crunchy, and sharp. Like other fancy lettuces, it tends toward the bitter side, but it provides such an interesting texture that it is usually included in spring mixes and mescluns.
Leaf (Red, Green) Lettuce
These large, ruffled leaves are soft and pliable, making them good choices for protein wraps. They are excellent in salads and on sandwiches.
Mizuna
Despite the unfamiliar name, mizuna makes frequent appearances in mesclun, with its pretty, jagged edges and strong flavor, you can pick this Japanese mustard green out of a lettuce lineup!
Oakleaf Lettuce
The purple-topped leaves are softer than red and green leaf lettuce, and their flavor is mild, making them excellent as beds for protein dishes and salads.
Romaine (Cos)
In a class all its own, this leaf with a sturdy central stem is the authentic lettuce for the Caesar salad. The slightly bitter flavor and crisp texture make it perfect for salads, sandwiches, wraps, and grilled lettuces.
Radicchio (Red Chicory)
This tight reddish-purple ball with white ribs is a tight head. The leaves are bitter raw, but become sweet when cooked.
